Day 38 - Mohács, Hungary to Bilje, Croatia (49 miles)

I set off even later today than I did yesterday (I did say the breakfasts seem to start later as I travel further) but as I only had some forty-five miles to cycle I was in no rush. I had even planned to visit a monument and information centre about the Battle of Mohács which I was told I passed on the route. This is a significant battle (maybe the significant battle) in Hungarian history as it led to the break up of the Hungarian Kingdom. In 1526 the Turks of the Ottoman Empire, intent on getting a hold in Central Europe, defeated a vastly outnumbered Hungarian army. The Turks occupied parts of Hungary for well over a century and with the death of the Hungarian King leaving no heir, the remainder of the Kingdom ended up under control of the Habsburgs in Austria. And I had thought celebrating major military defeat was something particular to the British.

As it turned out the monument is slightly off route and as I didn’t see any signs I missed it completely. Instead, after a fast and busy road and views of a remaining communist watch tower, in just over an hour I was crossing the border between Hungary and Croatia. There followed a few miles following long, straight sections of road that zig-zagged their way through a flat, agricultural landscape, unsurprisingly not dissimilar to Hungary. I could have followed road all the way to my destination but instead I opted for a detour.

Cold War Watch Tower - Croatian/Hungarian Border

The Kopački rit nature reserve is billed as low lying wetland with a variety of wildlife and is being developed by the government for eco tourism. I could cycle through part of the reserve and rejoin the route further along which sounded like a good alternative to a day of solely road. As long as I didn’t stray off the path: the area was mined by the Serbs during the civil war and although clearances have been undertaken some areas are still regarded as dangerous. The 'good quality gravel track' I read about was a bit of a challenge though: sometimes a stony, potholed path with jolting large rocks, sometimes with wheel slipping gravel and sometimes the faint impression of a tractor tyre providing a rhythmic shaking, but always hard work, exposed to the sun and punishing on bike and body. It took me nearly three hours to cover eighteen miles. In part it was another long and grinding ride on a flood dyke resulting in sore neck and shoulders but it was tempered somewhat by four sightings of wild boar and piglets. On each occasion they were feeding near the path and on each occasion, because I was downwind, I got quite close before they saw me and raced off.

During the day I made use of one of the maps lent to me by Herbert on Monday. Although between my app and guidebook I have enough information on the main route, any alternatives and useful services, the maps bring all that information together in one so they are quite handy. I mounted one on the bike today so I could see the area I was cycling through and it proved informative and useful on the section through the reserve. Maps have other benefits too: with a map the battery never runs out; you can read them in bright sunlight; and you can be sure a map is showing you all the detail all the time - there are no issues with zooming in for the detail or out for the big picture. On top of that, whatever you do to a map it can never start talking to you in a monotone electronic voice telling you where to go. I like maps.

After leaving the reserve it was fortunately only a three mile road ride to Bilje and my accommodation, a small self-contained room in a residential area. Bilje is a very quiet, small town and I chose it over the bigger and more obvious destination of Osijek as it saved me six miles cycling and evened out my days in Croatia. Tomorrow I will have time to stop in Osijek for breakfast and explore should I feel inclined.