Day 22 - Höchstädt an der Donau to Ingolstadt (59 miles)

Within five minutes of leaving the hotel this morning I was off the main road passing through Höchstädt and in the small lanes of the surrounding countryside. Everything was Sunday-silent save for the birds and the occasional toll of a bell from a church tower somewhere across the flat. The route took me through small villages, one of which was Blendhiem, site of the battle where the Duke of Marlborough beat the Austrians and earned himself Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire. By all accounts it was a bloody day with 20,000 killed and they say that today local farmers still turn up the bones of some of the fallen.

By mid morning I was in Donauwörth, another town centre of delightful multicoloured buildings and cobbled streets. I still had over forty miles to go to Ingolstadt but made time for coffee. The rest of the morning was a throwback to three days ago with an undulating and hilly ride through the countryside. Not as bad as the cycle to Mühlheim by any stretch but still a reminder that challenging terrain has a big impact on my speed and my energy.

Donauwörth 

The afternoon however was my reward, with hardly a road or hill to be seen. Long, flat stretches on a levee by or near the Danube - reminiscent of my days by the Loire - made up for my morning efforts; the rhythm of my legs, the crunch of the gravel beneath my tyres and a focused mind coming together to have the miles slip away. The river sections were separated by long stretches through woodland tracks where again the combination of relative flat, the smell of wild garlic and the abundance of nature provided distraction enough for the miles to pass by largely unnoticed. 

I entered Ingolstadt through an old city gate which was impressive enough but was then immediately faced with the immensity of the town's biggest church, a Gothic monster with cavernous interior and two strangely angled square towers framing the entrance.  Ingolstadt is where Mary Shelley set the novel Frankenstein and although nowadays it might be better known for more modern practices like engineering and oil refining, the city centre still feels very traditional. 

Today may have been a shorter day but once again the miles are catching up with me and I feel a weariness in mind and body. So, after exploring the town on foot and enjoying a well earned beer I took the easy option and headed back to my hotel in the heart of the city to eat and relax. I have just over two days more before I reach Passau on the Austrian border, the end of this stage and a city which I hear is beautiful and where I will spend a day resting and exploring.