Day 3 - Chênehutte to Rigney-Ussé (40 miles)

Today’s obvious destination is the city of Tours, only some 60 miles away. But twice now I have fallen foul of the impact of the floods and guaranteeing a reasonable arrival time was my priority for today. However, unlike the last two days, everything went well so I am now relaxing in the sun amid green pastures and trees with 40 miles done and time on my hands.

It has been a pleasant and interesting day. Even the one or two flood related diversions seemed insignificant with the sun on my back and no time pressure. The route started much as yesterday finished: a quiet road by the river with the occasional small white stone village along its length. Eight miles in I stopped for coffee at the larger town of Saumur, after which the route headed a little higher up the valley through villages where the houses had been developed from caves or carved out of the white, limestone rock face. I stopped at a quirky looking bar that was part constructed, part natural, where despite the hour I enjoyed a beer before checking out its cave wine cellar extending well into the rock. And yes, I cycled off with a bottle. Caves, natural and man made have been used for housing by the poor in this area for centuries. The rich, on the other hand, used them for wine storage. Nowadays while some are still homes, many are cafes, restaurants and even hotels.

After a couple more troglodyte villages and a lengthy cycle through vineyards it was back down towards the river and a long road through countryside, small villages and farmland. The day ended with a long tree-shaded section on a levee, feeling a million miles from anywhere, until I arrived at Rigny-Ussé which seems little more than the farm where I am spending the night; definitely no restaurant here. I am 23 miles west of Tours and it stills feels like it is a million miles from anywhere.