Wednesday, 10 April 2024

Day 4 - Rigney-Ussé to Blois (70 miles)

It was fresh as I set off this morning, pedalling towards the sun, high enough to blind but not yet high enough to take the chill off the air. On my left the Loire, wide and seemingly still and peaceful with the morning mist rising, ahead the same road on the same levee that had seen me to Rigney-Ussé yesterday afternoon. It was 7.30 and my plan was to cycle the twenty something miles to Tours for breakfast then decide about pressing on the next fifty miles to Blois.

I followed the Loire almost all the way to Tours, a peaceful and steady ride by the tree lined river. But Tours was uninspiring  - I no doubt didn’t see her at her best - with a long cycle to the city centre through mostly boxy, modern streets and across modern bridges over Loire tributaries. I decided to pedal on the next few kilometres to a quieter and smaller town for coffee and then on to Amboise for lunch.


Amboise

Amboise is beautiful. It is known in particular for its chateau, the fifteenth century residence of Charles VIII, and also for the home of Leonardo de Vinci; he lived here until his death in 1519. But I was in need of food and had a fair distance still to go so my sightseeing was limited to what I saw on the route through and while sitting in the beautiful but tourist-packed high street enjoying lunch.

For the most part, the rest of the day followed a peaceful, tree-shaded track alongside or near the Loire. It would break out occasionally to a small riverside town or village, and there were detours through vineyards and countryside, but generally it was steady, smooth cycling on good firm track through woodland. By late afternoon I had reached Blois. It is another beautiful city and as I approached along the river I could see its chateau, used as a Royal residence, and late Gothic cathedral dominating the surroundings even from a distance. Later that evening I wandered the cobbled streets lined with ancient wood framed buildings and soaked up the atmosphere before heading back to my hotel room to prepare for tomorrow.




Approaching Blois


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Postscript

It has been a month since I returned from my ride. Memories of that journey are slowly fading in their clarity and singular days of riding h...